Lace history (1)
Lace was more than just a sumptuous and highly coveted luxury, affordable by only the privileged and well-born. It was also the product of an industry that provided a living to thousands of workers, formed a huge portion of the revenue of many nations, and played a role in history that goes largely unrecognized and unremarked today. We hope to provide you with a sense of the phenomenal beauty of lace and, at the same time, give you a graphic picture of the lives of those who produced most of the millions of square yards of the fabric. Keep in mind that some of the most sophisticated and highly coveted laces could require as many as ten hours of concentrated work to produce a single square inch. Lace is classified by textile historians as "True Lace" (vrai dentelle) and "Other Laces". Needle lace and bobbin lace are the two forms recognized as vrai dentelle. Other forms, such as crochet, tatting, knitted lace and a variety of other decorative, openwork textiles are classed with the "Others". The relative merits of such a distinction are beyond the scope or the intent of this page. Suffice to say that each art form has it's own special merits and it's own particular value and appeal. The principle differences between 'true' and 'other' laces lie in the fact that the nature of the structure of those laces classed as 'other' precluded the extreme fineness, fluidity and delicacy that usually characterize those termed 'true' laces. We know little for certain about the origins of bobbin lace. The case is otherwise for needle lace. Textile historians agree that Venitian openwork embroidery was the direct progenitor of this form of lace. According to Anne Kraatz (Lace: History and Fashion) in the early 1500's the exquisite embroideries for which Venice was famous, were becoming ever and ever more open and less and less of the foundation fabric upon which it was worked remained in the finished pieces. At the peak of it's development, this openwork embroidery evolved to an extreme form called Reticella. In Reticella only the geometric frames of woven fabric, upon which the outline stitches were done remained in the finished work. Open areas from which the woven threads had been removed were filled with needle-woven designs to provide the ornate fillings which were the final step toward the first true needle lace. Finally, rather than go to the work of removing so much of the original fabric, the embroiderers began to lay down outline threads, couched to a pattern. The framework of the design was worked over these threads, while at the same time, the fillings of decorative stitches and designs were worked so that all the parts of the lace grew together as the work progressed. The early needle lace was termed Punto in Aria - literally, stitches in air.
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[From: 来自网络] [Author: 不详] [Date: 10-12-15] [Hits: ]